In the world of Pakistan mountaineering, it is undeniable that Muhammad Ali Sadpara is the greatest climber they have. His achievements and consistency in the world of mountaineering have established his name as one of the greatest inspirations of Pakistan’s mountaineering world.
One of Muhammad Ali Sadpara’s greatest achievements in the world of mountaineering was being the first person to reach the summit of Nanga Parbat in the winter of 2016 along with Simone Moro from Italy, Alex Txikon from Spain and Tamara Lunger from Italy. Another winter climb that Muhammad Ali Sadpara also succeeded in was Pumori Peak in 2017 which was also the first winter ascent.
Muhammad Ali Sadpara is known as the only mountaineer in the world who is considered the most familiar with Nanga Parbat or the Mountain Killer. He was the first person to reach the top of this mountain in four different seasons. Spring, autumn, summer, and winter too. On a mountain with a height of eight thousand meters, Muhammad Ali Sadpara has listed the 8 peaks that he reached in an impressive way.
Some of the mountaineering achievements that have been successfully carried out by Mumammad Ali Sadpara include the following;
- 2006: Gasherbrum II and Golden Peak
- 2008: Nanga Parbat and Muztagh Ata
- 2009: Nanga Parbat
- 2010: Gasherbrum I
- 2016: Nanga Parbat winter first ascent
- 2017: Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat (first autumn ascent) and Pumori (first winter ascent)
- 2018: K2
- 2019: Lhotse, Makalu and Manaslu.
When he disappeared at K2 in the winter of 2020/2021, Muhammad Ali Sadpara climb with his eldest son, Sajid Ali. While trying to make the second summit, Juan Pablo Mohr from Chile joined the team and made the team into four people along with the expedition leader, John Snorri Sigurjóhnson from Iceland.
In the Bottleneck area, Sajid Ali’s oxygen cylinder regulator had a problem. Seeing this, Mumammad Ali Sadpara ordered his sons to return to Camp III and wait for them to descend from the summit. However, Ali Sadpara, Juan Pablo Mohr and John Snorri never returned. They were declared missing and died about a week later.
The death of Muhammad Ali Sadpara left a deep wound for many people. Not only in Pakistan, but also around the world who sympathize with mountaineering, feel the loss of his death. Muhammad Ali Sadpara left behind a wife named Fatima and three children, including Sajid who managed to return safely.
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