Marty Schmidt is one of the most famous mountaineers and world-class mountaineering guides. He is a former American air force pilot who specifically later pursued the profession as a professional mountaineer. In the field of mountaineering (especially the seven summits circuit) the name Marty Schmidt is quite popular because of his accumulated success to top various mountain peaks that are included in the ranks of the seven highest peaks on seven continents.

Throughout his mountaineering career, Marty Schmidt has climbed Mount Denali Peak in Alaska at least 29 times, reached the summit of Aconcagua 34 times with several repeat climbs on five different routes (including the technical south side), reached the summit of Mount Cook or Aoraki in New Zealand as many as 26 times, summited Mount Aspiring (New Zealand’s 23rd highest mountain) 16 times, summited Tasman 7 times, and also summited Mount Everest twice.

Photo source: Alchetron

In addition to these mountains, Marty Schmidt also has a collection of seven eight thousand meter peaks that are part of the Himalayan crown throne. Marty reached the peak of Kangchenjunga in 2001, the same year that he also reached the peak of Cho Oyu.

After several failed attempts at K2, in 2010 Marty added to his collection by posting a climb on Mount Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) and Gasherbrum II.

Still in the 2010 climbing season, Marty Schmidt became the third person from New Zealand to reach the summit of Makalu solo, and became the first New Zealander to do so without an O2. In the same season, Marty also managed to reach the top of Ama Dablam, but at Lhotse he failed to reach the top.

In 2013, Marty Schmidt and his son, Denali Schmidt, made it to the top of Broad Peak. Climbing Broad Peak is a form of acclimatization by Marty and his friends before a more serious attempt at Mount K2.

Photo source: The Log Book Macpac

After climbing Broad Peak, also Marty Schmidt, Denali Schmidt, and one of the great Swiss-South African mulatto climbers named Mike Horn, participated in the rescue effort of three Iranian climbers who had an accident on Broad Peak. Unfortunately this attempt failed, three Iranian climbers disappeared and have never been found until this day.

After the rescue attempt, Marty and Denali begin their efforts at K2.

However, the sherpas were advised not to climb any higher due to the bad weather. However, both Marty and Denali, were determined to reach the top of K2 even though they were the only ones to do so.

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When all the teams backed up and down, the two fathers and sons moved towards Camp 3. But unlucky for both of them, a huge avalanche was waiting to sweep them away while the two were resting in the tent.

Marty Schmidt and Denali Schmidt died in this event, the location where they pitched their tent, was wiped out by a terrible avalanche. The bodies of these two fathers and sons were lost in the ferocity of Mount K2, and no trace of them has ever been found.

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