Tsuneo Hasegawa is another legendary Japanese solo adventurer.

As an Asian climber, Tsuneo Hasegawa can be said to be quite successful in his ascent in the European Alps. He was the first person in the world to climb three of Europe’s deadliest cliffs in winter (the Great North Face of the Alps or North Face Trilogy).

1977 Hasegawa climbed the North Face of the Matterhorn solo in winter (second solo winter ascent). In 1978 he set a record by becoming the first person in the world to climb the Eiger North Face solo in winter (first solo winter ascent). In 1979 Hasegawa added to his prestigious collection by reaching the top of Grandes Jorasses solo in winter from the north side (solo winter ascent).

Then in 1980, Hasegawa again recorded his achievements with a solo winter ascent climb in Aconcagua via the normal route. And in 1981, Hasegawa accomplished perhaps his most spectacular feat, or in other words his greatest masterpiece by becoming the first person in the world to reach Aconcagua Peak in winter solo via the mountain’s famously most technical south side.

The route used by Tsuneo was first opened by a French team with a climb that took about one month. It was an amazing thing when Tsuneo Hasegawa managed to complete the France Route solo in the midst of the onslaught of winter in Aconcagua.

Picture Source: MTMNfilm

 In 1991, Hasegawa attempted a climb in the Karakoram Mountains targeting the 7,388-meter-high Ultar 2 Peak (or simply Ultar) which stands in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan.

Unfortunately on this climb, Hasegawa was hit by an avalanche while trying to climb the challenging South Face.

Hasegawa died and his body disappeared in the abyss of Ultar 2.

Most of the articles in this blog are translated from Indonesian-language mountaineering books written by Anton Sujarwo

Anton Sujarwo

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